On one of the 17th-century streets behind place des Vosges, a pair of cramped but cozy dining rooms filled with memorabilia from Provence make up this loud and somewhat raucous bistro. The service is brusque and sometimes hectic. But the food will remind you of a visit to your French grandmother's kitchen -- dishes such as shrimp with pastis sauce, brouillade des pleurotes (baked eggs with oyster mushrooms), spinach salad with goat cheese, fondue of ratatouille, gratin of mussels, and simple but savory magret (breast) of duck with rosemary.
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